INTRODUCTION
When you bought your first 3D printer, it’s very likely that your first prints didn’t turn out as you expected. Depending on the object you’re trying to print—especially if it’s one you designed yourself—it might print well sometimes and not so well at other times.
For example, the first object we all print when we get our first 3D printer is usually the Benchy. It’s a small object that’s already optimized to print almost perfectly the very first time.
On the other hand, when I tried to print my first complex object, I remember failing several times without really knowing why.
So in this article, I’ll try to address and explain the main challenges you might be facing if you’ve just started 3D printing.
INCONVENIENCE 1 - BED LEVELING
The two printers I owned before buying the Bambu Lab P1P (which was discontinued in February 2026 https://blog.bambulab.com/a-farewell-to-p1p/ ) were the Creality Ender v3 and the Artillery Genius Pro.
Two inexpensive and fully functional printers, but with one small drawback: the bed must be leveled manually by turning four screws—one in each corner.
Even if you’d rather not go through this, it’s crucial that the bed is properly leveled to ensure an even distribution of the first layers across the entire bed.
The easiest and most convenient way to level the bed is:
- Start the manual leveling process that comes pre-installed on the printer.
- Place a sheet of paper directly beneath the extruder head at each of the four points.
- Turn the screw that's unerneath the bed so that, when you gently move the paper, you feel some resistance but it still moves. Ultimately, this comes down to practice and trial and error.
- Repeat step 3 at all four points until they offer the same level of resistance.
I'm attaching a video just as a visual reference for the process. If your printer has a manual leveling assistant, it's important to use it to avoid damaging the motors.
INCONVENIENCE 2 - MODEL ORIENTATION
If you've already leveled the bed perfectly and are still having trouble printing your model, it's very likely that the orientation of the model isn't correct.
The idea is to orient the model so that the first layers cover as much space as possible while minimizing the need for supports. If you use a slicer like Cura, it has a button that automatically orients the model to optimize the print. However, it’s a good idea to check the model before printing it, because the orientation suggested by Cura may not always be ideal.
A comparison showing how orientation affects how the model will be printed.
https://www.selfcad.com/slicer
INCONVENIENCE 3 - ADHESION
Another problem you may be encountering is that the first few layers aren't adhering properly to the print bed.
The first solution for this type of situation would be to clean the bed with rubbing alcohol or isopropyl alcohol using a cloth or paper towel. Often, when we remove the models, traces of dirt from our fingers remain, preventing the layers from adhering properly.
If the first layers aren't adhering even though the bed is clean, it could also be that the temperature settings aren't correct. As a general rule, when printing PLA, set the filament temperature to around 210°C and the bed temperature to around 65°C. When printing ABS, set the filament temperature to around 270°C and the bed temperature to around 100°C. There are other types of filaments, such as PETG, but if you’re just starting out, I wouldn’t worry about them.
A note on ABS: it’s difficult to print because it requires high temperatures to prevent the layers from unsticking from the bed. It’s usually printed in fully enclosed machines, but if the room can maintain a constant temperature—so the printer doesn’t cool down too quickly—it can be printed in machines that aren’t enclosed.
If the first layers still don't adhere even with the correct temperature and orientation, you can configure two types of support structures within the 3D printer. One is a single layer around the model, and the other is a multi-layer perimeter that is printed before the model itself. This increases print times, but it can be quite useful.
https://fypower.org/raft-vs-brim-vs-skirt/
INCONVENIENCE 4 - FILAMENT
If, even after checking all of this, you still can't print your model, it's very likely that the filament you're using is of poor quality or has absorbed moisture.
The easiest solution in this case is simply to replace the filament. To combat moisture, some people recommend using special devices normally intended for food storage, but in my opinion, it's easier to just buy new filament and make sure it's stored in a dry environment.
In addition, properly maintained filament prevents other issues, such as stringing in prints, and ensures that all layers are laid down correctly.
https://hiswai.com/stringing-in-3d-printing-what-is-it-and-how-do-you-fix-it-3dnatives
INCONVENIENCE 5 - LIMITATIONS
Filament printers are very practical because they allow you to produce parts very quickly, but they aren't ideal for printing something more organic, like a character or monster.
If your model has fine details, it’s quite possible that the diameter of the default nozzle—even though it’s already quite small (0.2 mm)—won’t be sufficient to print the first layers of those details. You can check this in the slicer to see if the printer is able to print them.
Here are three options:
- Forget about printing that model.
- Buy an even smaller nozzle and swap it out. Although, if you’re just starting out with 3D printing, I wouldn’t recommend trying to change the nozzle yourself. It could be another headache.
- Buying a resin printer or trying to get your hands on one. These printers stand out precisely because they’re capable of printing models with extremely fine details. That said, they come with their own set of headaches, and they also take much longer to print.
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